To my surprise, the Nordik turns into the Petit Rigolet as it leaves St.Augustine. It then turns left through Fournier Pass into the Grand Rigolet. I just think about how we would have felt coming face to face with this monster as we were surfing down the Petit Rigolet with a good southwester and the current in our back just last week...

Walter Lavallée, whom we met last night at the Bateman's, will be our companion all along this sailing. Born in St.Augustine, he left the village in 1952, aged 17, to seek work in the mines of the Iron Ore Company in Seven-Islands. We have plenty of time to enjoy the stories he never tires of recounting. Among the "Outdoors Lover" class of passengers hanging around the observation deck we also meet several new friends: the recreational sailor who would have loved doing this trip on his own boat; the couple from Bellechasse County near Quebec City, on the last leg of a trip that took them, their two daughters, their minivan and camping trailer through New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Blanc Sablon, and now on the way to finding a new road in Natashquan; the French couple from Normandy, far from home, but "crazy in love" with the St.Lawrence River that they know better than many Quebeckers... A little later, we meet Marie-Julie and Christian, quietly sitting on the floor with that far away look in their eyes that you get when your mind is full of the memory of a beautiful trip. Why am I not surprised to fing that they're fellow kayakers? They tell us about their three-week adventure from Blanc Sablon and Old Port to Whale Head. He teaches in the native school in Seven Islands, she is an agronomist born in St.Jean, South of Montreal, "trying to cultivate something" in Seven Islands. We followed almost the same route in opposite directions and probably crossed path near Providence Island where they stopped for a few days.

The day goes by quickly as we let our eyes recreate the trip that took us through those same waters just a few days ago. We point to each other a particular rock, an island we remember, rediscovering them from a different perspective. The scheduled stops follow each other... on schedule: La Tabatière then Tête-à-la-Baleine (Whale Head) where we witness a modern version of the traditional migration to the outer islands of La Providence. Just about the whole population of the village is going to a wedding on the island, together with friends from Chevery and Kegaska. Then Harrington Harbour at the end of the day, the start of our paddle two weeks ago, where we take a long walk, taking more pictures and talking to villagers we meet.

Back on board we eat a little supper and lay down in the coolness of the night on the now deserted foredeck, under the stars. Snuggled in our sleeping bags between a bench and the glassed railing, wearing every article of clothing we brought, we fall asleep like babies, rocked by the gentle movement of the ship as it softly rolls and pitches in the swells South of Chevery. Even the bustle of a midnight stop in La Romaine and a few brave mosquitoes do not bother us.

I awake at 5 am as we're stopped in Kegaska. The ship is facing East and I greet the sun rising in front of my eyes in an almost cloudless sky. In three hours we will be docking in Natashquan. We get in line at the cafeteria for a good Nordik breakfast with Walter, in great form at the idea of getting back on the road, and with Marie-Julie and Christian who also slept outside - they had the Port bench, while we occupied the Starboard side!

We pull into Natashquan on schedule. The wharf is swarming with activity. Before I realize it, our kayaks are unloaded. I get the car and start loading as the Nordik departs for Havre-St-Pierre. It will take it 6 hours to get there, long after us... We will see it again as we are driving near Ile-Michon, and one last time, from far away, in the early evening after it will have left Havre St-Pierre for Anticosti Island, as we are setting our tent along the beach at the Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan camping ground.

We make a slow trip back, stopping, as we had promised ourselves we would, to thank Pierre St-Hilaire at Agaguk in Havre-St-Pierre, Matthieu at Kayak O.P.S. and Sylvain at La Chicoutée in Longue Pointe who had all contributed to this beautiful trip with their advice, experience and encouragements, and to whom I dedicate these lines.

Other encounters join in to enrich our memories of this last leg of our trip: Lionel Vigneault of Natashquan who tells us about his life before and after the road; Mrs Landry at La Boutique Les Galets, also in Natashquan who offers to take care of the post cards on Monday, and the owner of the small souvenir shop in Aguanish and her delicious soft ice cream...

It's back on the now familiar Route 138, then Autoroute 40 and finally back home in the green hills of the Laurentians. But the sea is not far away as we unload a carful of memories still heavy with ocean smells...

Our kayaks are laid on the grass for a good rince and suddenly look very small. Like them, our thoughts are already drawn towards the next adventure.