Bandeau
Sea Kayaking
South Shore
Newfoundland

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Maps Trip Information


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Practical Information

Maps (Newfoundland South Shore from Port aux Basques to Bay d'Espoir)
  • Topo (1/250 000) : Port aux Basques "11-O" and Burgeo "11P & 11-I"
  • Marine Charts (1/75,000 approximately - 1 in. = 1 nautical mile): 4635 (Cape Ray to La Poile Bay), 4634 (La Poile Bay to Ramea Islands), 4633 (Ramea Island to Bonne Bay)
Guidebooks
  • A Guide to Sea Kayaking in Newfoundland and Labrador, Kevin Redmond and Dan Murphy (Nimbus Publishing, 2003): a collection of sea kayaking routes with (somewhat superficial) descriptions designed to stimulate more investigations.
  • The Forgotten Coast, Kayaking Newfoundland's Southwest Shore, Scott Cunningham (Sea Kayaker Magazine, February 2003): Article describing a 2-week trip from Rose Blanche to François, well written by the author of a very good guidebook to sea-kayaking in Nova Scotia.
  • May we rant and roar no more: a sea kayak journey around Newfoundland, Michael Paul (Pottersfield Press, 2001: the true story of a solo circumnavigation of Newfoundland, with a very personal reflexion on the past, the present and the future of the Island and its people.
  • Other interesting links:
Sea Conditions

Tides are relatively weak (less than one meter) but vary with the lunar cycle and wind direction. There are no currents except at the mouths of deeper fjords where tides have an impact. The water is very cold (below 10 degrees C) except in sheltered and shallow bays.

The Southwest is renowned for the number of wrecks that punctuate its shores. It is lined by rocky shallows and "sunkers" (barely submerged rocks) which offer a very interesting paddling environment on quieter days but quickly create vicious conditions in stronger seas. Vertical cliffs and shallow waters create very choppy conditions in certain spots, even in calm seas.

Weather

"If you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes..."  The Newfoundland climate is renown for quickly changing weather. Bad weather and cold spells are usual well into June. July can be foggy on the South shore as warmer weather meets the cold sea. It is said that August brings the fairest conditions.

At the end of July and early August 2003, we enjoyed a full week of incredibly good weather. The whole South shore had been in deep fog for a full three weeks just before and rain and wind returned on the 10th of August.

Camps

Between Rose Blanche and Burgeo, the low shore offers a multitude of sheltered landing spots. The landscape changes progressively East of Burgeo. Cliffs rise and there are fewer islands. Shelters are few and far apart.

With some input from local residents and a little bit of planning we were able to find sheltered coves relatively easily. We always slepts on beaches, mostly pebbles.

In Grey River (contact Rose's Store at 709-296-3131) and in François, rooms can be rented for the night (about $75 for two, including dinner and breakfast).

Fresh water can be found streaming down rocks along the shore. It is generally reddish and should be filtered. We found filtered water in bottle or in bulk at local grocery stores.

We saw no sign of pesky or dangerous critters, apart from mosquitoes and a few black flies. There are black bears on the Island but they are probably busy inland and have few reasons to come along the shore.

Maritime Transportation

Sydney to Port aux Basques ferry schedules and rates can be found on the Marine Atlantic web site. Go to the Newfoundland Department of Transport site for the schedules and (very low) rates of Coastal Ferries.  Caution:  it takes three days to return from François to Rose Blanche and the ferry link between Burgeo and Grand Bruit runs on Tuesdays only!  It is possible to sail from François or Grey River to Burgeo almost every day.

Photos : Marie Falquet
Design and production : J.M. Falquet, 2003

January 04